With autumn in the air, here are some suggestions for what might tempt your fancy whether in Paris or just dreaming of it in another locale.

Passage des Panoramas

This is perhaps my most favorite “secret treasure” of Paris.  My heart skips a beat just thinking of this Ali Baba treasure trove of shops and restaurants, all jumbled together and offering myriad temptations.  The passages (approximately 25 are still in existence) were mostly constructed in the 19^th century in narrow passageways between streets and boulevards that were sheltered by thin soaring glass ceilings, often decorated in grand style.  Basically, they were an early version of today’s shopping mall: rows of boutiques offering the growing affluent bourgeois class a choice of the new mass production of consumer goods.  The passages were at the center of fashionable 19^th century life, only ceding their importance after the creation of the great department stores around 1870.

At present, the Passage des Panoramas (located in the 2^nd arrondissement, between the Boulevard Montmartre to the north and the rue Saint-Marc to the south), is regaining its popularity due to the emergence of “foodie” destinations that dot its narrow passageway.  However, for me it was an old fashioned 19^th century shop that originally led me to the Passage des Panoramas.  Stern Graveur was my destination, a stationery shop of impeccable reputation where “le tout Paris” would order their engraved calling cards and letterhead stationery.  Opening the dark wooden door, I discovered a shop out of a Dickens novel, with embossed Spanish leather on the walls, and the tiny but imperial Madame Stern, an octogenarian with a voice of gravel, who was the 5^th generation to direct this venerable institution.  With patient but firm guidance, she dictated what I would order.  My French calling cards are often still remarked for their uniqueness – that of the Stern Graveur imprimatur.

Today, the imposing overhead sign of Stern Graveur and the outside mosaic insignia doormat still remain together with the dark wood paneling and the Cordova leather covered walls.  However, the interior has been transformed into Caffé Stern, an Italian restaurant with trendy touches by Philippe Starck.  When it opened last year, it instantly became the “go to place” of the moment by the fashion and celebrity world.  Now I can finally get a reservation.  In short, it’s fun.  A plate of delicious antipasto or a soul satisfying pasta can be a refreshing alternative to French cuisine.  It’s cozy, it’s crowded, and you can go at any time of the day.  I am sure that the fashionistas of the 19^th century would have approved.

Caffé Stern – 47, Passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris – tel : 01 75 43 63 10