If the passages of Paris were the center of bourgeois shopping in the mid-19^th century, the creation of large imposing department stores at the end of the 19^th century brought a total change to Parisian daily life.  One such department store was what is called today the “Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville”, or familiarly BHV.  In the 1850s, the engineer Xavier Ruel created a “Bazar Parisien” where he sold small items around the area of the City Hall, or the Hôtel de Ville.  Legend has it that in 1855 Ruel saved the life of Napoleon III’s wife, the Empress Eugénie, whose horses became frightened when she was passing in front of his store.  She gave him a monetary award which enabled him to expand his store which he named “Bazar Napoleon” in their honor.  After a subsequent building expansion and the fall of the Empire, he renamed his store, the Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville.

The BHV is beloved of Parisians even if they complain about the crowds, especially during the annual sales.  One can find anything and everything at the BHV.  The basement is a famous destination place in Paris, especially for the handyman.  You can find every size of nuts and bolts, every size and wattage of light bulbs, hammers and saws, signs to warn against ferocious dogs or with arrows to direct driveway traffic, or whatever else of sheer practicality you might want.  There is even a watchmaker who can change a battery (whatever kind), a watch strap, or repair your watch.

Upstairs, you can find everything to furnish your home: sheets and towels, coffee makers and appliances, silver polish and vacuum cleaner bags, light fixtures and sterling silver, and so on.  If you need a notebook, a book, the latest music disc, or a suitcase, look no further than the BHV.  It is truly one-stop shopping.  I even recently purchased a trendy flower printed Armani windbreaker.  Who would know it was from the BHV?

However, the most unusual new find at the BHV is “The Nail Counter” located on the first floor amid the cosmetic stands of Chanel, Guerlain, Dior and Estee Lauder.  At a gleaming long counter, friends tell me that one can obtain one of the best manicures in Paris.  With a clean “spa” look, and impeccably dressed and coiffed manicurists, this could be a special moment of relaxation and beauty within a historic site that once housed one of the wonders of the new department stores of the 19^th century.

BHV Marais – 36 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris – tel: 09 77 40 14 00